Around the highest mountain on this island is the land of Lochaber, containing many high peaks, steep cliffs, raging torrents and wild coastlines. It is justifiably popular, but popular it is. Slightly to the west lie lands that may not be as high, but in some ways excel in their beauty. Across the Corran Narrows, down by Loch Sunart and tucked behind the village of Strontian lies Ariundle. Surrounded by hills, forests and the mines that put the village of Strontian on the Periodic Table, it is a very fine place and is hidden away from the main tourist traps. It is here that the Moray Mountaineering Club went for their July weekend meet this year.
Three parties took advantage of the day with the best weather, which in this instance was Friday. Two of the those parties involved people who managed to get the day off work, or at least feigned illness, the other was Malcolm, in the enviable position of being retired and able to enjoy mid-week hills and bike rides:
“Set off late after packing bike stuff and rucksack. Arrived at the base of Beinn Sgulaird on a glorious sunny afternoon at 14:30. Opened the boot and – Disaster! I had left the rucksack complete with compass, maps, food etc in the garage! Decided to climb like a tourist with just a bike water bottle and a mac. Steep slopes up and down but survived. A lesson learned however.”
On Saturday Malcolm “Decided to forego the pleasure of the hills and opted to go for a bike ride. Set off at about 10:30 hoping the rain would ease off (which it did eventually). With no plan in mind, headed to Kilchoan 30 miles away. Coffee and cake in Salem, then the slog over the hill to Kilchoan. Decided I could not face the return trip… so… caught a ferry to Tobermory. Cycled south to Fishnish then caught the ferry to Lochaline. Final stretch was a slog over Gleann Geal to Strontian. Excellent day, 71 miles, coffee and cake, two ferry trips and no pictures!”
Andy L had a lovely day out in Moidart, climbing Beinn Gaire and Croit Bheinn.
The other Friday day out is described by Dan “Metal” Moysey, as the MMC 2015 July Ski Trip:
“When the President requests one’s presence it’s hard to say no. So at two minutes to midnight the skis were packed (along with kit for climbing, cycling and kayaking). At 6.30am the next day the heavy metal was blasting as I approached Joe’s abode “22 Acacia Avenue”. We met up with Sheena (The Maiden) at the North Face car park and after a little faffing – do I really need an avalanche transceiver? – it was time to run to the hills.
It was at least a million degrees but eventually the CIC Hut was reached and Ledge Route came into view.
Up we went across the lower snow slope of No. 5 Gully and onto the ramp. Although only about 45 degrees it was wet and a bit tricky with a big pack and skis. Sheena was a little nervous, but her iron will shone through and the ascent continued. Some great scrambling followed until eventually all three of us stood at the top… and looked down upon today’s objective… “The Beast”. It was terrifying! Let him who hath understanding reckon the number of the beast, for it is a human number. It’s number is FOUR! There was some discussion over lunch about the potential consequences of a fall from the top steep bit… or the less steep rocky bit… or the narrow bit. None of us wanted to die with our boots on and we already had an appointment with our maker at Strontian.
Sheena wisely returned to the car park via the half-way lochan. Mr President and I carried our skis to the summit, desperately looking for a ski descent. No. 3 – too steep… No. 2 – steeper… Gardy loo – would need one even just looking down it! With slight resignation that fear is the key to longevity we descended towards the Carn Mor Dearg Arete and finally found a 200m snow slope at a feasible angle. So after seven hours we put on our skis. Ten minutes later it was skis off and the long trudge to the car park to finish the longest day of our weekend.
There’s probably a lesson to be learnt about skiing in Scotland in July… but it hasn’t been learnt! Happily all lived to tell the tale to the Ancient Mariner (et al) back in the village at the lovely Ariundle bunkhouse.”
On Saturday Jenny, Kat, Sheila, Ben and Petra went west to Ardnamurchan, as described by Jenny:
“A leisurely depart from the Ariundle bunkhouse, we meandered along the road towards Ardnamurchan. Ben was a little queasy from the evening before so a short stop was made, followed immediately by a leisurely stop for cream tea and some very enthusiastic bird watching. Back on the road again and eventually set off for our one hour walk to Creag Meall an Fhir-Eoin.
Most of the road journey had been very rainy, but it was now dry and the crag was nice and dry when we arrived. Ate and geared up and then helplessly watched as a sheet of torrential rain headed straight for us and… you guessed it… drenched the crag and us! Petra helped the situation with her laughter and infectious jolly personality – what else to do other than laugh!
Most of us lost all hope and enthusiasm for climbing, except for Kat who remained determined to climb. She succeeded in persuading Ben and Petra to climb a long slabby Diff, while Sheila and I pottered around at the bottom of the crag, planning world domination. The weather improved and we walked out, passed the ruined croft and then drove to Sanna Bay for a quick look, then away to the bunkhouse.”
Graeme “Zippy” Morrison and Penny The Wonder Dog popped by to join the club for the weekend. They are currently making great progress in their challenge to climb all the Munros in 100 days and timed some reasonably local ones for this club meet. As Ardgour, Sunart and Moidart are not exactly awash with hills above the magic 3000 foot contour, Graeme and Penny, joined by Jane and Joe, set off for Glenfinnan to walk the Coire Thollaidh (often anglicised to Corryhully) Horseshoe, a lovely ridge walk than takes in the Munros of Sgurr nan Coireachan and Sgurr Thuilm.
The large car park at Glenfinnan was reached and Graeme carefully weaved his campervan around people, cars and Spanish and German coaches, neatly parking without running over a single stray tourist. The heavens opened and the kettle was put on. The passengers happily sat back in their seats and enjoyed Graeme’s home baking with their cuppa as the crowds wandered around outside, incessantly rained upon, wafting midgies, and trying to decide whether to go to the Bonnie Prince Charlie monument, the “Harry Potter” viaduct or the gift shop.
The rain stopped and bikes were used to cycle up the remarkably good quality track to the bothy. The three humans dismounted and adopted Penny’s mode of travel, albeit on two legs. Penny led the way up the well-built stalker’s path that winds its way up the southern ridge of Sgurr a Choire Riabhaich with Graeme close behind. The two day-trippers were both sporting new “go-faster” trainers, abandoning the traditional walking boot in an attempt to maintain the pace of Zippy and the Wonder Dog, but they still struggled to keep up. Great views were had out to the west coast as they approached the summit, and a group of teenagers were passed, who appeared to be some sort of Outward Bound group but with no apparent leader. Unfortunately the top was in cloud, but one more Munro had been climbed in Graeme and Penny’s adventure. Thankfully most of the ridge between the tops was just below the cloud and fine views were had to the left into Glen Pean and Glen Dessarry and right to Glen Finnan but just before the summit of Sgurr Thuilm was gained the clag turned into heavy rain, leading to a discussion of what to wear in the hills and Graeme disapproving of both Joe’s and Jane’s underwear. A swift descent to the van followed, which involved Joe slipping, somersaulting and snapping his walking pole before the bikes provided an easy free-wheeling ride to the van.
Andy B, Debra and Martin climbed Beinn Resipol on Saturday. A beautiful hill with gorgeous views, if the weather allows, and eminently do-able from the bunkhouse without having to drive anywhere, which is one of the features of a great weekend venue. On this day the weather wasn’t great but a fine day was had. Andy L also stayed fairly local to the bunkhouse, climbing Sgurr nan Cnamh in Ardgour.
Sheena and Evelyne climbed Sgurr Dhomhuill. “17km of undulating rock, bog, grass and a good path at the start. Passed through old lead mines dating from about 1800. Spotted two ptarmigan, primroses, orchids and the beautiful Atlantic oak temperate rainforest of Ariundle. Heavy showers, compass required at the summit but a good day out.”
Simon, Dan, Jake and Drummond decided to keep their heads out of the low cloud by staying at sea level on Saturday, as described below by Simon:
“A late start via Jake’s van for bacon and egg sandwiches, drove to Glenborrodale where we eventually found a launching area for the kayaks. Paddled against the wind to Oronsay and into the bay to the south. Due to our late start we missed the tide and were faced with a 200m portage. This proved interesting as the beach was knee deep, soft, smelly, glutinous and generally revolting mud which sucked off shoes, we resembled primeval bog monsters. Lunch on the rocks, washed gear and boats and we headed off on the tidal race into Loch Teacuis. We passed an islet with a large colony of Arctic Terns and Common Gulls en route to the head of the loch. Against the tide and through the east channel past Carna and back along the north shore of Loch Sunart in flat calm. A wonderful day and a fitting and memorable 60th birthday for your humble scribe.”
Saturday night was a typically sociable one and the kitchen / living area of the bunkhouse was packed out. It felt tropical as the heat and the midgies competed to win gold in the Most Annoying contest. As the mercury rose the windows were flung open, giving the immediate relief of a cooling breeze but an invitation to thousands of the blighters to creep in and feed on human blood.
There was a smaller group in addition to the Moray Mountaineering Club staying at the bunkhouse, who thankfully were a fine bunch and didn’t mind being swamped by not only midgies but a large number of people. Our Membership Secretary did a grand job of poaching and an extra member joined our ranks from the other group.
Hushed gossip on the Friday night had alerted people to the significance of the weekend to one particular member and somehow a cake, birthday card and present magically materialised and were presented to Birthday Boy Simon on Saturday evening amongst much merriment.
On Sunday Sheena and Dan kayaked around Eilean Shona (owned by Richard Branson apparently). They managed to time the tides perfectly (more by luck than judgement). There was just enough water to get over the sand bank between the mainland and Castle Tioram and also up into Loch Moidart and then a nice tidal stream that gently assisted them down the north channel to the open sea. They just about made it back to our starting point before the bay dried out too much.
A group of climbers decided to follow the weather in order to climb dry rock… and the weather didn’t look great for the west. Ben, Petra, Sheila, Joe, Jenny, Jane and Kat went to Kingussie crag, which though a long way from Strontian was at least on the way home. Much fun was had, with several routes receiving ascents, a harder line top-roped and some exploratory multi pitch climbing was enjoyed.
The “first ascentionists” of a three pitch route decided not to write to the new routes editor when they subsequently found their route in the guidebook.
Another fantastic weekend, and great to see such variety with which people enjoy the outdoors on a club meet. Whether walking, climbing, cycling, kayaking, island hopping (by bike or kayak) or skiing it’s just great to get out and enjoy the beautiful country in which we
Author: Joe
Photos: Andy, Dan and Kat