Applecross, the intriguing little peninsula with no Munros and not an awful lot of hillwalking either. But what it may lack in these areas it more than makes up for in just about every other way one could think of.

The Cioch Nose is an amazing piece of rock, beautiful to look at but better to climb. The climb is described in the great classic of climbing literature, “Classic Rock”, as “a route up the almost vertical nose of A’Chioch, where, by the normal laws of Torridonian Sandstone, none should exist, unless of great difficulty.” It boasts superb climbing with spectacularly steep surroundings.

If mind-numbing exposure’s not your thing then how about 50 odd miles of gorgeous scenery on bicycle? Some of the most beautiful coastlines anywhere on earth, the wild and remote east coast of Raasay to gaze upon across the waters of the Inner Sound and a road built, in part, by a member of this club. Lots of up and down, a pub half way round at the lovely village of Sheildaig and the biggest descent of the day (and in all of Britain) that leads from the Alpine pass of Bealach na Ba straight to the campsite, and pub. The circumnavigation of Applecross is one of the must-do tours of cyclists the world over.

Who could see the coastline of Applecross without being drawn to it? The glittering water pulling at our deepest longings to be in it, like some distant call from our evolutionary past. It’s no wonder that Applecross is well known amongst sailors and kayakers. The Crowlin islands are asking to be explored, or just to potter about with the expansive views, from the Cuillin of Skye to the south, Raasay to the west, Applecross itself to the east, and the far blue yonder to the north, with perhaps a glimpse of the distant Hebrides.

The club assembled at the campsite, somehow managed to find each other and pondered whether to pitch the communal club tent, known as the “Soul Pad”. After a few desperate cries of “F***ing midgies” and “Sod this, I’m off to the pub” the large mass of canvas remained packed and there was an exodus to the alehouse. Here, comfortable midge-free accommodation was at hand to relax, socialise and plan the weekend adventures.

Two of the gathered group had managed to have a good day out en route to the campsite. Andy had a good day out traversing Ben Shieldaig, spotting two golden eagles.

Golden Eagle from Ben Shieldaig

Colin was close by, but out to sea, taking his kayak for a paddle from Sheildaig and enjoying the sunshine and the company of seals.

Applecross sunset (Friday evening)

There is surely something amiss if a Mountaineering Club travels to Applecross, and the weather is good, and nobody attempts the Cioch Nose. And so it was that four hardy mountaineers set off for the classic climb. The formidable foursome who had tackled steep rock on the wild and remote crags of Rum once again donned their harnesses for some steep mountain fun. Kat and Simon, who had climbed on Hallival on the club May weekend, and Dan and Jane, who had teamed up with Martin on the same weekend to “spread the wings of faith” and levitate up Archangel Route on Trollaval, made their way to the epitome of classic Scottish mountain sandstone climbing. Swapping partners at the bottom of the route (is this starting to sound a little seedy or does the author of this report have a dirty mind?) they climbed the awesome route, passing most of the difficulties before the rain started. But when the rain started it did not fizzle out, it did not take a breath, it just kept raining all afternoon and night.

The Formidable Foursome

On the Cioch Nose

Simon and Jane on Cioch Nose (taken from 2km away on Beinn Bhan)

Sue made the most of the good weather by walking south from the campsite, enjoying some of the finest scenery from the Applecross peninsula and the best weather of the day, returning to the campsite almost before the rain set in.

Most of the group, consisting of Bob, Fiona C, Fiona R, Andy L, Colin, Sheena, Ella and Drummond decided to traverse Beinn Bhan from west to east, approaching from Tornapress in the north to get the best of the views of the northern corries. They walked by the River Kishorn to Loch Gaineamhach from where an ascent was made into Coire Fhamair.

Colin and Fiona

Apparently they took a break beside a large erratic, but it is unclear who the large erratic was or why they were being erratic.

Erratic

As the headwall of the coire was climbed, Andy saw a Ptarmigan with a single chick and Ella saw a toad in a hole.

The chick

Ascending the coire

The summit was reached before traversing the ridge in gradually worsening weather to Sgurr a’Chaorachain and cars left at Bealach na Ba.

At the summit of Beinn Bhan

Joe and Katie had similar plans to traverse Beinn Bhan but didn’t go with the rest of the group. One reason for them striking out on their own was the desire to achieve a perfect aesthetic loop from the tent. To do a route that starts and finishes from where one rests one’s head, with no need to drive to the start or finish is a very satisfying feeling. The other reason was that the rest of the group somehow managed to be ready to leave quite early. Joe is well known for his abilities to faff and tendency to be the last to leave the weekend accommodation for a day in the hills. Katie is new to the club, this being her first weekend, but may, in time, also be known for similar abilities and tendencies. And so, between the two of them they finally sauntered out of the campsite, at an indeterminate time, possibly before midday. A gentle walk up the glen, with a stop early on for lunch lead to the southern slopes of Beinn Bhan. A light drizzle began before much height had been gained, but the cloud remained high. Dragonflies, frogs and ptarmigan were passed, and the spectacular northern corries of the hill were gazed upon once they had reached the crest. The light rain continued for most of the day but it didn’t seem to matter. There was no thick clag, the views were perhaps not as expansive as they might have been but who cares when the hills close at hand are so awe-inspiring? The vertiginous, often surprisingly green cliffs of the corries, with their almost surreal knife-edge ridges and precarious plateaux were enough to blow the mind, even if the distant hills of Torridon, Kintail and Skye were obscured by cloud. As they made their way to the final summit of the day, Sgurr a’Chaorachain the wind and rain had increased substantially. They reached the summit of this unfortunate hill, covered, as it is by a radio mast and associated buildings and rested awhile behind one of the buildings. They were relieved to see the four climbers descend from their adventures on the Cioch Nose to their cars at the bealach, just in front of them and followed behind to reach the top of the Bealach na Ba and two bicycles, stashed earlier, ready for a breath-taking and effortless 600m descent to a campsite, hot shower and excellent pub with real ale and good food.

Lightshow in the Applecross Inn

The rain continued throughout the evening and by the time everyone returned to their tents the heavens has turned the campsite into a soggy mess. Dan commented that his tent was not quite as waterproof as it once was and Fiona was met by what could only be described as a covered paddling pool, and crept off to take sanctuary in the boot of a car. The rain continued unabated and by 6am Colin had had enough, threw his Vango Force Ten into his car and drove off, homeward bound. He was thoroughly fed up with its performance, leaking badly after only having it for forty years and is heading back to the shop to complain.

By 9am the rain was still pelting down and some questioned the point in staying. As the rain gradually subsided many took this to be the sign that striking camp and driving home was the order of the day. And so, after this frantic retreat from Applecross only four remained. Dan, Joe, Katie and Sheena were left behind as the clouds parted to reveal clear blue skies and sunshine.

A wee tour of the south of Applecross by bicycle was the order of the day. They almost set off as a foursome but some assorted faffing and technical problems meant that Dan and Sheena made the wise decision to head off first, leaving the other two to work towards their departure at a more sedate pace. They finally did leave the campsite but hadn’t travelled far before they were distracted by the sight of a colony of seals on a skerry, many of them playing in the sea by the side of their dozing companions. The southern port of Toscaig was reached by all four, though at different times, as was the wee coral beach at Coillegillie. And while Dan and Sheena were tempted by the azure waters of the Inner Sound, Joe and Katie had less resistance to such temptations and dived in for a swim.

By the time they had dried, clothed and cycled back up the road it was time for dinner so it would have been rude not to eat fish suppers in the warm evening sunshine outside the pub while the sun started its slow descent towards the west.

Author: Joe
Photos: Andy and Dan