Sat 12th – Sun 13th December 2009

The last time the club went to the Glen Coe area it rained continuously, but this time our luck was in and sixteen lucky folk experienced clear skies for the whole weekend. A few drinks on Friday night did nothing to deter an early start for most.  Members headed off in all directions…

Alan Duncan and Dave McLean went up Beinn na h-uamba  (sp?).  A multinational team comprising Illona Morrice, Joe Glennie, Ali Erginsoy and Daniel Moysey scrambled up Curved Ridge.  They prepared for full-on winter conditions, but these only really set in towards the top.  Bob MacDonald demonstrated his commitment to Munro bagging by turning his back on the mountaineering paradise of Glen Coe and heading into the glare of the sun to the “Peak of the White Tracksuit” (aka Ben Lomond). Evelyn Droege, Chrissy McKay, Fiona Duncan, Dave Galloway and Drummond Beattie had a long day on Meall nan Eun in Glen Etive. They managed to find one of the few patches of mist in the area, which caused a few navigational difficulties (not to mention almost losing Drummond).  They returned to the car in pitch dark.  Natacha Mihajlovic and Ella Grant went up Garbh Bheinn, which lurks at the rear of the Aonach Eagach.  Simon Willatts went up Bidean nam Bian via the lost valley and the long ridge of Beinn Fhada.

Spurred on by the thought of another sunny day, everyone had ambitious plans for Sunday.  I’m sure that most of these were realised, but as there are few write-ups we can only guess.  However, the main story of day was the mountain rescue incident on Stob Corie nan Lochan.  Ali Erginsoy, Daniel Moysey, Dave Galloway and Illona Morrice all successfully ascended some great winter routes.  On the way down, Ali tripped and slid (very fast) down a steep snow slope into some rocks.  He was airlifted off the mountain and spent the night in Fort William A&E.  As if this wasn’t enough, there were actually two further similar incidents in the same location within about half an hour.  Fortunately, all three casualties seem to have escaped with only minor injuries.  Ali was very battered and bruised but is now recovering.

Accidents do happen, but there are things that we can all do to minimise the risk.  There is not much that could have been done differently on Sunday, but the incident does serve as a reminder to all of us to carry the right gear and know how to use it.  If you have any doubts, or just want a reminder, then book yourself onto a winter skills course…Don’t just rely on someone else!

Dan Moysey

Ali adds: It had all the classic ingredients of a climbing accident: On the descent, slightly tired, on easier ground where you let your guard down. We’d finished the climb and downclimbed Broad Gully. I was in the process of turning from left to right when I slipped on rock hard snow-ice on the approach apron to the gully – probably still a 20 degree slope at that point.  The minute my crampons lost contact with the surface I was away. I did try to arrest, but was hampered by the fact that I still had two ice axes strapped to my wrists. In retrospect, I should have put one away earlier, which might have given me a better chance of holding on to the other one.

The other thing I would say is that I was surprised how quickly you pick up speed. After a few seconds, I doubt if an ice axe arrest would have been successful anyway. On this occasion, I think I was lucky that the outcome wasn’t a lot worse. The accident has also made me think twice about soloing so-called “easy gullies”. I don’t even want to think about what could have happened if I’d slipped in the gully. It depends on the conditions of course, but on that day it was like an ice chute. Finally, I probably owe my life to having my helmet on.

Glencoe MRT and the chopper crew were incredible, as were the doctors and nurses at Belford Hospital in Fort William. Special thanks also to Neil and Craig and my climbing partner for the day, Dave, who selflessly stayed by the rapidly multiplying casualties, with a cool head throughout!  I think it’ll be a few weeks yet before I’m fully recovered as I seem to have a bad groin strain, but making progress every day.

For more photos from this meet click here