November at Inchnadamph Lodge has become an annual tradition for the Moray Mountaineering Club. Assynt is indeed one of the world’s loveliest areas and there is a lifetime’s worth of things to be done, whether walking, climbing, caving, kayaking, canoeing, cycling, fishing, geologising or whatever else takes your fancy.
Uamh an Tartair visited en-route to Meall Coire an Lochain on the Friday:
Everyone arrived safely at the salubrious accommodation despite a surreal small patch of extremely heavy hail that made a bit of the drive from Ullapool to Inchnadamph a bit more interesting than it should have been. The stove was lit and a sociable drink or two was drunk. At about 1.30 on Friday night someone decided it would be a great idea to light a sparkler from the wood burning stove… Once the fire alarm had been blaring for a few minutes and all doors and windows had been opened, with people variously wafting the fire alarms and running around looking for an off button the decision was taken to phone the unfortunate man in charge, who roused himself from bed and wandered over to unlock the door leading to the control room to turn off the infernal noise. He was remarkably good natured considering the circumstances although he did mention that it’s usually students who manage to set the fire alarm off. Indeed, we are studious types. One kind club member promised “at least a bottle of whisky” for the bother of the late night call out. She was instantly cruelly accused of making promises she wouldn’t keep but I’m sure she bought him a fine malt or two.
Saturday dawned fine, if windy and cloudy. Illona, Judith, Andy B and Sheila went for a lovely low level walk by the magnificently steep and imposing Quinag. The walk provided great scenery, changing all time between mountains, lochans and the sea dotted with islands.
Just about everyone else wandered up Conival, some heading up Ben More Assynt too. Some got up early and were away by 9.30… they didn’t get much of a view. Others got up even earlier and managed to get some stunning summit views before the weather closed in. Summit views are to be treasured but late night whisky drinking is better for the soul, or so I keep telling myself. Strong snow filled easterly winds encouraged a hasty retreat for all. The snow continued to fall all evening, falling as rain at the base of the hills and extinguished all plans for the promised firework display.
Early morning views from ascent of Conival and Ben More Assynt:
Sunday dawned a bit brighter than forecast but still with heavy showers inbetween sunnier spells. The mountains were gorgeous when they appeared briefly in gaps between the clouds. White snow caps contrasted with black clouds and the occasional rainbow burst colour across the scene. Knockan Crag proved a popular outing, a chance to get some fresh air without having to battle the freezing winds and sharp showers to a mountain top. The visitor centre provides a fascinating insight into the geological evolution of the earth and the impressive work carried out by Ben Peach and John Horne in the 1880s. They struggled against both the terrain and weather and the intransience of the establishment to intricately map the area and show that ancient schists and gneisses had been thrust on top of newer limestone by the almost unimaginable forces within the earth’s crust that we now know as plate tectonics. The walk around the crag is nice too and on this particular Sunday the sight of the subtle curves of a snow covered Cul Mor was truly sublime when it sneaked out from behind the foreboding clouds to give those fortunate enough to be there a cheeky wee glimpse.
Illona and Alison walked out the the Point of Stoer, an excellent place to be on a stormy day, especially when the beautiful and distinctive hills of Assynt can be seen as a panorama. Tea and cake at the Ceilidh Place in Ullapool was too much of a temptation for some, as was the book shop, and who can pass up the opportunity to play Pooh Sticks at Coireshalloch Gorge when the river is in spate?
Author: Joe, Photos: Andy